Where to camp right now

Madison Campground

A 1,500-square-mile field of geyser basins, lodgepole ridgelines, and grizzly country with the Yellowstone River cutting straight through it. We point friends here first because every other lower-48 park measures itself against it — and because the dispersed sites in the Beartooth corridor still feel like 1973. Go in shoulder season if you can: Lamar Valley at 5 a.m. in late May, the boardwalks at Norris before the tour buses, and a pull-off on the Beartooth at golden hour you will remember for years.